Khumbu ice fall

April 23-26

After arrival back at base camp, everything appeared just fine, and even the weather did show signs of improvement. Next morning we went on a hike up to Pulmori camp 1, just outside of Everest base camp. The view from up there is supposed to be spectacular, with sights of the upper ice fall, the Western Cwn, the Lhotse face, and Everest and Lhotse by them self. We left right after breakfast, but sure enough, even before we got high enough, the snow clouds started to roll in and shortly thereafter, there was no view at all. Nevertheless, the hike up there was although pretty hard, still very enjoyable. The rest of the day was like most of the last ones: light snow all of the afternoon. 

Next morning at 4 am, we left for some practice in the Khumbu ice fall. Again, the weather was not very pleasant, and we spent most of the time navigating the gigantic ice boulders in light snow and some pretty good wind. After about two hours up we called it quits for the day and headed back down to camp. The rest of the day was pretty much a wash out with changing winds and snow. The plan was, to climb next morning through the ice fall to camp 1, and spend some time up there, including continuing on to camp 2 and beyond. Interestingly, when I got up in the morning I noticed that my voice had gone away, and my throat didn’t feel too good either. So, we decided that I should give it some rest and we postponed our departure for a bit. It looks though like things are improving, and we are now plan on leaving by tomorrow. 

I took the time to get some pictures from base camp, and also caught one of the helicopter evacuations, that unfortunately happen here quite frequently. As I mentioned earlier, staying healthy up here for long enough, so that one actually gets to climb the mountain, is a constant, and daily battle… 

When we leave base camp, I’ll be off the grid for a couple of days, which could be anywhere between 4-7 days, weather and general conditions dependent. As usual up here, no news is good news. I’ll be back in touch when we return back to base camp.

 

 

Back at Base camp

April 21-22

We left Pheriche in the morning, and arrived back in Lobuche just before lunch. The hike took just under three hours, amazing what a bit of acclimatization can do for you. The first time up, it took twice as long, and the long uphill section was pretty harsh then. It was definitely time to get out, too many sick people around at the lodge in Pheriche. I guess it is just the same as when one has to go to a hospital: when things are improving, it is time to get out and not any later… Since we arrived in Lobuche quite early, the Lodge was pretty empty, and I ordered some food and tea to settle down for the afternoon. A short time later, a Sherpa guided a woman inside, she could hardly walk on her own and was obviously severely sick from the altitude. While I started eating my lunch, the Sherpa on the other side of the room tried to feed the woman some soup, with little success. A short time later she grabbed for the bucket next to her and relieved herself rather noisily. I kept looking at my great omelet and started to wonder if should rather move on instead spending the night here. These scenes are unfortunately not all that uncommon, one of the obstacles on the way to Everest base camp. Staying healthy is one of the main challenges over the 40 miles up to base camp and beyond. 

The rest of the day was pretty uneventful, and also the rest of the trek back up to base camp next day. Things are o.k. this far, and tomorrow I will continue with a hike up to Pulmori base camp at about 19,500 ft. Then it is time to start up the ice fall on Everest. The first possibilities for climbing high on Everest are still about 4 weeks out, in the mean time we will continue acclimatizing, and trying to stay healthy, of course…

Pictures from the Puja of April 17

Pleasant rest days

April 19-20

Two very pleasant rest days at Pheriche are coming to an end, tomorrow morning I’ll be on my way back up to base camp.  Things have cleared up quite well, and the weather also seems to be improving, at least here at the “lower elevation” of 14,200 ft.  Interesting how easily one changes the perspective:  … going to 14,200 ft “to get some rest…”  The trek down from base camp took about 6 hrs, but was definitely worth the effort.  The way back up from Pheriche will take of course a bit longer, and it is also not advisable to get the whole 3,300 ft back to base camp in one day.  I’ll be hiking back up to Lobuche in the morning, spent the rest of the day there, and continue on to base camp next day.  In the meantime, some more climbers have gotten down here yesterday and also today.  Most likely, the unpleasant weather at base camp over the last couple of days did make this decision a lot easier for some folks.  Just a few minutes ago Pasang, my climbing sherpa showed up, we'll be going back up tomorrow together.  He's one of the legends here: 34 years old, and has been on top of Everest 7!!! times... Right now, things are looking up though, and I am looking forward to finally get some of the climbing in the ice fall on the way…

Namaste!

Options and Choices

April 18


Before starting up the mountain, several days of rest are on the schedule.  In order to begin moving up the mountain, we need to continue acclimatizing and, most importantly closely watch our personal health.  Several of us, me included, had contracted some kind of cold or intestinal issue on the way up and, even their remnants may be a minor concern at lower altitude, these issues can return and most likely get worse higher on the mountain. 

The next few days can be spent at base camp, or an option that a few people have already taken: descent to a lower altitude for a few days in order to cure these ailments before getting higher on the mountain.  Thinking about this option I, too decided to go down for a few days to get back to 100 %.  There is really no hurry at this time, and it’ll be far better to begin the real climb as healthy as possible.  So, another climber and I in company of a Sherpa hiked down to Pheriche, a village 3000 ft below base camp.  I’ll be staying here for 3 days, and then return back to base camp.  

Things will be a bit slow for the next 2-3 weeks while we will continue acclimatizing and going through two rotations higher up on the mountain.  The real climb is at least 4 weeks away, of course weather permitting.  And the weather has not been great, according to the sherpas it has been the coldest spring for many years.  Well, it is one day at the time here, and right now, patience is most important…

Puja

April 17

The next day after getting back to base camp we took part in the Sherpa ceremony (“Puja”) that officially started the climbing season on Everest.  This is a very traditional event in which a local lama performs the ceremony that asks for the protection and safety for those who are about to enter the mountain starting with the Khumbu ice fall.  All Sherpa participate in the ceremony, and climbers are bringing their equipment, such as crampons, ice axes, harnesses with other hardware to receive protection before getting on the mountain.  During the ceremony, the climbing sherpas start erecting a high post over the traditional stone altar and running long lines of prayer flags hundreds of feet into the Khumbu glacier and all the way into the ice fall.  Participating in the traditional Puja was a very special and memorable event.  Once more we are reminded of the deep tradition and of the respect of the local Sherpa people to their environment.  Mt. Everest is after all the Sherpa’s mountain, and we are the guests in this part of the world.  With prayer flags now flying high and far into the Khumbu glacier, the climbing season on Mt. Everest can officially begin.

Pictures of the Puja will come later.

"Moving in".......

April 13 - 16

After arriving at base camp we spend a day with “moving in”, meaning to make our personal tents as comfortable as possible… under the circumstance, of course.  Our base camp is quite comfortable; we have our individual tents, a dining tent, and two other tents for communications, equipment and possibility to recharge our personal electronic equipment.  The latter depends a lot on the weather because the back-up batteries are solar powered, and priority is on keeping emergency equipment and satellite phones charged.  The weather has been sketchy at best, 2-3 hrs of sun in the morning, then cloudy and light snow in the afternoon.  All this then finally clears up at night, to assure the nights are pretty cold… 

After two days at base camp we packed our duffels again for one more excursion.  We descended back down to Loboche, and spent the next two days on Lobuche East, 20,070 ft, with climbing to a higher camp, and testing our personal equipment on some fixed rope climbing. 

As I mentioned previously, staying healthy is a foremost challenge on this trip. Small ailments do not go away as easily as at lower elevation, and can get much worse as time and altitude progresses.  I picked up some stomach infection on the last day before arriving to base camp.  Luckily, I got on it right away, and was able to get over it within less than 48 hrs (and with help of some Cipro).   Nevertheless, it does take a few more days before everything else returns to normal.  So, on the practice climb on Lobuche East I proceeded very cautiously, and tried to avoid unnecessary exhaustion that would make full recovery more difficult.  

On March 16 we arrived back at base camp, and now several days of rest are scheduled before we will start preparing for our two climbing rotations through the ice fall, and up to camps 2 and 3.

Update from Heiko

April 18, 2011

Heiko is back in base camp.  He says it’s snowing heavily and the camp is having some internet issues so he can’t send an update.  He is however feeling fine.  Also, he sent a link to a fellow climber’s blog which I include below (link has also been added to Heiko’s blog). From Heiko “Alan has his own satellite phone and his blog is really great”. 

www.alanarnette.com

Also, IMG has a number of updates on their website (link below). They have a number of new pictures including a new group picture. I can’t quite find Heiko in the picture so anyone who sees him should please let me know.

http://www.mountainguides.com/everest-south11.shtml

Thanks,

Yemi

Base Camp

April 7-12

A couple of days have now passed again, and we finally arrived at Everest Base Camp on April 10.  After spending some time at Lobuche, we left there on April 10, bypassed Gorakshep and went on all the way to base camp.  Arriving at 17,500 ft was certainly a bit exhausting, but it was great to see base camp,... finally.  The trek up here is certainly not an easy one, and there is plenty of room for mishaps or any kind of health issues.  The lodges are filled with all kinds of people coming through, cold rooms and water issues everywhere....

The trek, somewhat difficult though, is definitely worth it, for the well prepared.  Just outside of Lobuche, hidden in the hills is an Italian research station that is involved in climate change studies.  Further up, after a long climb, one passes over a pass with literally hundreds of memorials for those that have not returned from the mountain.  A stark reminder that, even if we all love these mountains, the mountains may not love all of us...  

After the pass one enters the upper Khumbu region.  The glacier is just enormous, and after struggling through the boulders on a winding trail Everest Base Camp is finally reached.  The altitude here is about 17,500 ft, every task requires effort.  About a week here is needed at minimum to feel some relief.  Today we went for the first time into the ice fall for some practice, but still kept it short.  Tomorrow we will decend back to Lobuche, and climb there a peak called Lobuche East, 20,070 ft for practice.  

We should be back in base camp in three days, until then we'll be a bit off the grid.  I'll be back in touch then. 

Namaste!

Base Camp

Italian Research Station studying climate change

Scott Fisher Memorial

A pretty special day.....

April 6, 2011

We left Dobuche at 8 am. The trail climbed not very steeply, but steady until we reached the village of Pangboche. There we had the opportunity to meet with Lama Geshe who is the second highest spiritual leader, after the Dalei Lama himself. We had the chance to meet with him for a short while, and also got a personal note. He then went on blessing the climbing sherpas, and finally sending us on our way with a wishing prayer (translation): 

 "Give up all intention to harm others from your heart
And do your best to benefit them all
If each and everyone feels the universal responsibility to do so,
We will all enjoy the feast of peace!"

-Lama Geshe from Pangpoche, located in the foothills of mighty mountain Jomo Langma (Mt. Everest).

The rest of today went pretty uneventful, and we reached Pheriche after being out for about 6 hrs. The elevation here is 14,020 ft (4,270 m), most definitely noticeable. We'll be here tomorrow for acclimatization as well, things certainly begin to get a bit harder now.

I don't always drink tea, but if I do, I prefer mint (with honey)...

12,800 ft

This morning we had breakfast at 7:30 am, then climbed back uphill to the Tengboche Monastery. Located at an altitude of almost 12,800 ft and surrounded by high mountains, the monastery is a beautiful place.  Luckily, we got inside for a quick visit.  The inside is stunningly beautiful, and some of us went back several hours later for the afternoon prayer.  The rest of the day went quietly, and at about 5 pm it started snowing again.  Tomorrow morning we'll be leaving for the village of Pheriche.  This should take another 6 to 7 hrs, and we will then be above 14,200 ft.  And at this elevation things usually start to get interesting...

Hot Shower...........

This morning we woke up to two inches of fresh snow.  Breakfast was again at 7 am, and we were ready to leave Namche by 8 am.  We slowly climbed out of the village, and got back on the trail following the Khumbu valley upwards towards our next destination.  The trail is easy for the first few hours, then steeply drops down to the river.  After crossing on yet another hanging bridge, the trail then climbs steady and steep in some sections upwards for several hours until one reaches the top and the beautiful Tenboche Monastery.  After crossing the river, it started to snow again, and we climbed out of the valley with little to see but the muddy trail and yaks going in the opposite direction.  From the Monastery, elevation 12,775 ft, it took another 20 min down to Deboche, and the Riverdale Lodge, which is our destination for today and tomorrow.  The surrounding scenery is almost overwhelming, and there is a close view of Ama Dablam, elev. 22,355 ft, one of the world’s greatest mountains. The hike up to Debuche took only about 6 1/2 hrs, and we even had the chance to warm up with a hot shower... 300 rupees / 7 min time limit though...

First views of Everest....

It rained overnight, but the weather was beautiful this morning. We left at 8 am for an excursion further up into the foothills.  We climbed up about another 1800 ft into the hills above Namche. The sky was clear this morning, and we had some great first views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam.  We were out for a good 5 hrs, and went through some small Sherpa villages on the way.  On the way back we stopped at a small monastery.  This one was very interesting because the scull of supposedly  a “Yeti” is kept there.  The story goes that the skull was brought to the village from another one as a gift, but was not welcomed, so it ended up stored at the monastery.  For a small donation one can take a look at it, it indeed looks very intriguing… Well, tomorrow we will leave for Deboche, the trek should take us about 7 hrs.  It is a long way to Everest base camp – a good 40 miles from Lukla.

Namche Bazaar, Market day.

We are resting in Namche for the day, just a short 3 h hike around town and up into the foot hills.  Namche Bazaar is the largest Sherpa settlement in the Khumbu region, several traditional trade routes meet here, and for market day, people come to town from the villages throughout the Khumbu region, and as far as Tibet.  It is amazing what variety of food and other items are available,  just about everything people need for their daily lives. And, of course everything is brought in on foot, sometimes days away from Namche.  So, it is really important to get the bread AND the milk, because it’ll be a very long way back to the “store”, in case one forgets something…

Namche Bazar...

Today was the first day that actually took some effort.  We left at 8 am and climbed up on the winding trail to Namche Bazar at an altitude of 11,200 ft, up more than 3000 ft from Phakding.  The trek up to about 7 hrs with one lunch break, rugged, but not too difficult.  The last part up on “Namche Hill” is pretty demanding, steep, and long.  The trail goes up through several Sherpa villages where the time seemed to have stand still, except for the cell phones…  The trail is incredible scenic, sometimes steep, and along deep drop-offs.  On several occasions we crossed hanging bridges, some actually being pretty high, and swinging not only up and down, but also sideways.  Everything went very well, and curiously, I also appear to have developed some unusual appetite.  I am wondering if I am still in recovery mode from the 16 hr daily routine at home, and I actually getting some rest now…  At any rate, thus far things are looking great, and the next three days in Namche should be interesting.